Neykottu biryani: A bone marrow-infused Malabar speciality

Neykottu Biryani is a true gem of Malabar cuisine, known for its deep, meaty flavours and the luxurious richness of bone marrow. Unlike traditional biryanis that rely on fragrant basmati, this dish uses locally preferred rice varieties like ponni, kuruva, or matta, making it unique in both texture and taste. Slow-cooked with a blend of aromatic spices and tender buffalo leg, Neykottu Biryani is a must-try for anyone who loves bold, traditional flavours. Here's how you can recreate this authentic Malabar speciality at home.

Ingredients
For the biryani masala:
1.5 kg buffalo leg (primarily bone marrow with some meat)
2 teaspoons coconut oil
2 onions, thinly sliced
2 green chillies, slit
1 teaspoon ginger-garlic paste
3 teaspoons coriander powder
2 tomatoes, chopped
1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
1/2 teaspoon pepper powder
1 teaspoon garam masala
Salt to taste
Fresh curry leaves
Fresh coriander leaves
For the rice:
2 cups ponni, kuruva, or matta rice
3 teaspoons coconut oil
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder
1 teaspoon ghee
Fresh curry leaves
Fresh coriander leaves
Salt to taste

Preparation
Heat 2 teaspoons of coconut oil in a pressure cooker over medium heat
Add the sliced onions and saute until translucent
Introduce the chopped tomatoes, green l, and ginger-garlic paste
Saute for another 2 minutes until the raw aroma dissipates
Stir in the coriander powder, turmeric powder, and salt
Cook for about 5 minutes, ensuring the spices are well incorporated
Add the buffalo leg pieces, mixing thoroughly to coat them with the masala
Pour in half a cup of water, secure the lid, and pressure cook for approximately 20 minutes
Once done, allow the pressure to release naturally for about 15 minutes before opening the lid
Return the cooker to medium heat, add pepper powder, garam masala, curry leaves, and coriander leaves
Stir well and let it simmer until the gravy thickens slightly
Preparing the rice:
Rinse the rice thoroughly under running water until the water runs clear
In a large pot, heat 3 teaspoons of coconut oil over medium heat
Add fennel seeds and let them sizzle for a few seconds
Introduce the rinsed rice and sauté gently for 2-3 minutes, ensuring each grain is coated with oil
Pour in enough hot water to cover the rice by about 2 inches. Add salt and turmeric powder, stirring well
Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and let it cook until the rice is 80% done. This should take about 10-12 minutes
Assembling the biryani:
Preheat your oven to 180°C (350°F) if you prefer finishing the biryani in the oven; otherwise, stovetop "dum" cooking works well
In a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, layer half of the partially cooked rice
Evenly spread the cooked bone marrow masala over the rice layer
Cover the masala with the remaining rice, ensuring it forms a uniform layer
Drizzle 1 teaspoon of ghee over the top layer and garnish with fresh curry leaves and coriander leaves
If using the oven, cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid or aluminum foil and bake for 15 minutes For stovetop, place the pot on a low flame, cover with a tight lid, and cook for 15 minutes
Once done, let the biryani rest for 5 minutes before fluffing it gently with a fork
Serve hot, accompanied by raita, pickle, or a fresh salad.