This 103-year-old tea shop in Thrissur still exudes its old-world charm

Tea shops were once the bustling heart of villages in Kerala, where locals would gather for a refreshing cuppa and the day's news. Thatched roofs, brass samovars perpetually boiling water, radios humming tunes, steaming tea, and glass cupboards brimming with freshly made snacks were hallmark features of these establishments. However, such quaint tea shops have largely faded into memory, existing now only in old films. Yet, nestled in Padoor near Mullassery in Thrissur district stands Suni Chettan’s tea shop, which is almost 103 years old, tells many tales about the bygone eras.

Remarkably, this tea shop remains unchanged, holding steadfast to its old-world allure. Its thatched roof and mud-paved floor have weathered the years with grace, serving as a nostalgic haven for villagers who gather to peruse newspapers and reconnect with friends over cups of tea. Across two generations, this iconic tea shop continues to offer warmth in the form of hot tea and savoury snacks to its patrons.

Opened a century ago by Suni Chettan's grandfather, Velunni, the tea shop transitioned to his son, Madhavan, upon Velunni's passing. Presently, Sunil, Madhavan's son, oversees the shop, which has become the lively hub of the village. Sunil proudly maintains that little has changed within the tea shop since its inception. Notably, buffalo milk lends a unique richness to their tea – a tradition upheld since his grandfather's time. The same cash box, utilized by his grandfather, remains in service, a tangible link to the past. While the tea shop once served lunch under his grandfather and father's management, Sunil discontinued this service following his mother's passing and his sisters' marriages. Nevertheless, the allure of their buffalo milk tea, puttu, papadam, and roasted pathiri remains undiminished for the people of Mullassery, who faithfully convene each morning for their daily dose of socializing. Discussions ranging from current affairs to nostalgic musings are accompanied by the timeless melodies emanating from the radio, fostering a sense of community within these hallowed walls. Particularly during election seasons, the tea shop transforms into a venue for impassioned debates.

"We sit where our grandfathers and fathers once sat, fostering a deep bond of camaraderie amongst us. Though uncertain of its appeal to future generations, we aspire to preserve this cherished tradition indefinitely," echo the residents of Mullassery in unison. Sundays witness special gatherings where attendees revel in an evening of songs, poems, and, of course, hot tea at Suni Chettan's tea shop. For the people of Mullassery, these gatherings have become an indispensable part of their daily rhythm, solidifying the tea shop's enduring significance in their lives.