Vishu kani: Kerala temples that offer a magical ritual experience

Keralites believe the first sight on Vishu day sets the tone for the rest of their year. Curating an auspicious sight as the 'kani' or the 'first darshan', complete with a traditional lamp, konna flowers, grains, coconuts, currency, gold, and more, is therefore absolutely important on Vishu day. While a 'kani' prepared at home can be an intimate affair, many believers also choose to experience it at temples of their preference, to revel in an elaborate and grand aura of the fest, along with other devotees. Interestingly, in temples, the kani is first presented to the deity before devotees can witness it. Here's how the festival is celebrated in five of Kerala's temples. 

Sree Guruvayurappan Temple, Guruvayoor 
Many devotees stay overnight at the renowned temple in Thrissur to experience Vishu kani. In the past, people even used to tie their eyes with a piece of cloth the night before, to ensure that the first 'kani' they see on the day is none other than 'Guruvayurappan,' the deity of the temple. The 'kani' is displayed at the right side of the main shrine, in front of the Guruvayoorappan idol. The idol, adorned with ornaments, ceremonial fans called aalavattam and venchamaram, and a nettipattam (forehead ornament) will be seated on a raised platform. While devotees can experience it directly from the 'namaskara mandapam' in front of the sreekovil (sanctum sanctorium), those who have offered a ghee lamp offertory (nei vilakku) can get a special darshan as well. 
Timing: 2.45 am to 3.45 am

Thiruvarppu Sree Krishna Swami Temple
Thiruvarppu Sree Krishna Temple in Kottayam is famed as the first in India to have its 'nada thurakkal' or the opening of the sanctum or temple doors every day, at 2 am. While everyone celebrates Vishu on April 14 this year, the Thiruvarppu Vishu is on the next day, April 15. This is because the temple follows the tradition of having the 'kodiyettu' (flag hoisting) ritual on 'Sankramam'(the day on which the Sun enters the 'medam' (Aries) rasi).

Such a shift occurs once every few years, though it happened last year too. On the 'kodiyettu ' day, the temple will also have the Sribhoothabali ritual around 11.30 am, its famed 'anayottam' or elephant running competition at 5.30 pm. The Athaazha Sribali Vilakku, a procession where girls take three rounds holding lamps, will also be held around 7.30 am.

On Thiruvarppu's Vishu Day (April  15), the 'palliyunarthal', or the waking up of the diety ceremony, involves blowing the couch 12 times. It will be followed by 'nirmalyam', or the clearance of sacred remnants, at 2:30 am and the Vishu kani at 2.35 am. 
Timing: 2.35 am on April 15

Aranmula Parthasarathy Temple
While in other temples, including Guruvayoor, the vishu kani is set up in the 'mandapam,' it has a different setting in the Aranmula Parthasarathy Temple. The vishu kani will be laid out from the step of the 'garbha graha' of the deity to the sacred 'sopanam' steps leading to the sanctum sanctorium. The Vishu kani arrangements will consist of gold and silver pots, small plates, 'garudavahanam' vehicle of the Lord placed in the North and South directions, a big 'thidamu' or decorated replica of the deity, golden 'kaivettaka' used for pujas, and nettipattam (forehead ornament). An 'otturuli' or ritual vessel will also be filled with all the seasonal vegetables and fruits. 
Timing: 4 am to 8 am

Ambalappuzha Sree Krishna Temple
Vishu Kani at Ambalappuzha Sree Krishna Temple is a sight in itself, with ghee-lit kani lamps and the deity adorned with 'thiruvabharanam' or sacred ornaments. The Kani also has 'ashtamangalyam' agricultural products like jackfruit, mango, coconut, various fruits, konna flowers, and coins. The devotees are also given vishu 'kaineettam' or gift on the day.  
Timing: 3.30 am to 6 am

Ulanadu Sree Krishna Swami Temple
A temple renowned for its 'uri' (hanging pot) offertory by devotees for the answer to their prayers, the Ulanadu temple's vishu kani consists of various agricultural products, 'navadhaanyangal' or nine grains (paddy, mung beans, chick pleas, horse gram, pigeon peas, urad dal, kodo millet, wheat and sesame seeds) and seasonal fruits. The temple also offers 'vishu kanji' or porridge to the devotees after the kani, complete with papad, pickle and the 'asthram' curry made of yam, raw banana and ash gourd. The vishu 'kaineettam' is also given to around 25,000 people annually. This time, the temple also aims to promote a message against drug usage during the vishu festivities.   
Timing:  5.30 am till devotees are over