Dare to trek to Agasthyakoodam, Kerala's most dangerous trail? A first-hand tale

The Agasthyarkoodam trek is often touted as the most dangerous trekking path in Kerala, luring hundreds of enthusiasts every year to experience the terrain. The trekking season begins during the Sankrama season (a holy period in Hinduism) in January and ends on the Shivarathri day. The authorities allow only up to one hundred trekkers a day in this protected area. I could get the entry pass online only after trying multiple times. I started mentally and physically preparing myself for this trip since the day I got the pass. The three-day trek began on February 7, 2024.

Part 1 – The check post
The trekkers were instructed to reach the Bonacaud check post on the allotted day. We reached the check post via Attingal – Venjaramoodu – Nedumangad – Vithura in Thiruvananthapuram district. Along with the online pass, your original identity card and a medical certificate obtained a week before the trekking day should be submitted at the counter. It was already past 9 am when we reached the old, dilapidated building of the Bonacaud tea estate. The building still bore the signs of the classic elegance of British architecture. Although the government took over the building, it is still dilapidated. The machinery in the old tea factory had been rusted, but the building still stands.
The British built the beautiful building and the lush tea estate almost 135 years ago. The place looks scintillatingly beautiful even though the tea estate is no longer there. We couldn’t help but admire the far-sightedness and practical knowledge of the British who built such a vast tea estate and factory almost a century and a half ago. We even forgot that we were just 50 kilometres from the Thiruvananthapuram city. Those who built this factory and estate here must have been incredible visionaries, as the transportation was meagre in the olden days. The tarred road ended abruptly as we turned to the right side of the building. Here, we saw some old buildings that had been turned into quarters where only a few families lived.

KSRTC begins the service at 5 am from the city, followed by trips in the noon and afternoon. Trekkers mostly rely on these bus services to reach the checkpost, although some arrive in their own vehicles. The distant views of the mountains were charming. Meanwhile, herds of cattle and goats walked past our vehicle. We took the direction to which the youngsters on the road pointed. The mud road was too narrow that letting the vehicles from opposite directions pass was difficult.

The woods glistened as the golden sunrays touched the fresh leaves and blades of grass. As we went a little further, we noticed cars and vehicles parked on the wider parts of the road. These have been parked there for two or three days and belonged to the trekkers who got the slots before us. The huge green gateway reads ‘Agasthya Mala Oushadha Smrakshana Meghala’ (protected area), as well as Kerala Forest and Wild Life Department and Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary.

We managed to park our vehicle at a tiny spot. The security official named Kani promised us that the vehicle would be safe there. The entry pass and other documents were submitted at the counter. Forest officer Shibu and beat forest officers Rajitha and Anjana called the trekkers as per turns to verify the pass and documents. You could enjoy snacks or coffee at the small eateries there while your documents were verified. Besides, lunch, neatly packed in the long turmeric leaves were given to us. Sambar was served in small bottles, which should be returned after the trek. A simple vegetable stir fry, pickle and rice completed the meal. You could buy walking sticks carved from natural wood for Rs 20. The document verification is followed by baggage checking. Plastic bags and other items aren’t allowed inside the forest area. Wild animals may eat and choke on the plastic materials that are casually thrown away. So, the forest officials would check your baggage thoroughly to ensure you do not carry any plastic. In case you carry plastic utensils, then you will have to deposit Rs 100 for them. This will be marked on your pass and the deposit amount will be refunded when you show the pass at the check post while returning.

Part 2 – the trek begins
Each group comprising ten members are accompanied by a guide. Vishnu, Marimuthu and Senthil from Tamil Nadu, too, were part of my group. Meanwhile, our guide was Vincent, who hailed from Vithura. Vincent gave us instructions to follow during the trek. The trek began with a slight descent through the slope of the hills. Although the remaining area seemed flat, it was just the beginning of countless steep slopes. You cannot predict when you will be able to reach the base camp at Athirumala as the walking speed of each person is different. Vincent said that he would accompany us up to two kilometres. He wore a uniform of dark green shirt and pant and a cap too. He didn’t wear any shoes; instead he walked with a pair of regular Hawai chappal on his feet. Some of the group members walked fast while some others were slow. Meanwhile, Vincent kept talking, explaining the magical charm of the forest.

The giant trees spread a thick canopy of shade above our heads. The earth was covered with a carpet of yellow leaves that these trees had shed. Slowly, our nostrils began picking up the earthy smell of the serene forest. The sound of the birds drew our attention. My mind, stressed at the beginning of the trek, slowly began to relax. The sun rays that pierced through the dense forests warmed our bodies. Vincent pointed his walking stick and said, “There is a meadow after that hill. But we will reach there only in the afternoon. So, there is no need to hurry. You could slow down if you feel tired. Do not be scared if you are lost, just stay put and one of us will come to you.” There are camp sheds of the watchmen every one kilometre. Vincent then pointed his stick to a distant spot, which he said was the Agasthya Mala. The majestic hill looked grand, bathed in a shower of golden sunrays. The guide promised that the mountain could be viewed clearly from the base camp.

We stepped on the gigantic roots of the trees as we walked to the base camp. Some trees had fallen, but no one removed them to clear the path. It seemed Vincent, who has been working as a guide for over two decades, drew energy from the forest. The man with vast experience and knowledge kept talking about the forest's mysteries.

We fell silent when Vincent mentioned a trekker from Kattakada who was trampled to death by a wild elephant. Two young trekkers had run into a wild tusker on their way back from Agasthya Mala. The elephant chased the scared trekkers who ran for their lives. One of them fell down and was trampled on by the elephant. Vincent mentioned that the elephant may have been provoked by the actions of the trekkers. He advised us not to click photos by turning on the camera flash.

Meanwhile, he recalled that the forest watchers came for the rescue and informed the forest officials about the trampling incident. Police could arrive at the spot to prepare the mahasar only hours after the incident. They then carried the body to a hospital in the city for postmortem. The man who died had two daughters and one of them was mute. He believed she could regain speech if he climbed the Agasthya Mala and offered prayers at the summit. However, he lost his life while returning from the mountain. Later, his widow was given a job at the forest department. Vincent mentioned that she now works at the Kottoor forest range. He added that we need to be wary of the Ottayan or the lone tusker, not the elephants walking in herds. Vincent said that the accident may have happened because the wild animal felt threatened in its own habitat.

As we were walking, we saw a fabulous sight of two giant trees joined at the lower part. Now, the trunk had become so huge that not even three or four persons could hold their hands around it. This forest area is home to more than 2500 rare species of flora. The forest became denser as we headed to the base camp.

Vincent then narrated another incident when a man lost his life in a wild bison attack. Weather had been playing tricks that fateful day; rain showers and mist had cast a spell of darkness in the dense forest. The trekkers saw the wild bison at an area covered with round and uneven rocks along the slope. One of them cleared the path as soon as he spotted the wild bison, but the other one couldn’t. The sharp horns of the speeding bison pierced his chest and he bled to death. Vincent said he was wearing a raincoat which may have blocked his vision. The forest watchers rushed to the spot and carried the dead body to the camp. The body could be transferred to the hospital in the city only on the next day due to severe weather conditions. Vincent didn’t forget to mention that he was telling these incidents not to scare us but to remind us that we need to be alert and careful. Our legs gathered speed when we realised that our trekking path was not far away from the habitat of wild bison and bears. Now, all of us began to feel the heaviness of the backpacks that we carried on our backs. We took a turn to reach an area with huge rocks where we could take the weight off our shoulders and relax for a while. I relished the plump and juicy oranges while our Tamil friends offered pineapple slices.

Humans tend to seek the shade of the trees probably because we share a soulful connection with the forests since life began on earth. It seemed Vincent didn’t run out of scary stories of gore and death in the forest. He told how a man who climbed atop a rock to click picture had slipped and fell into a bamboo forest. The sharp edge of a bamboo that had been cut pierced his eyes, collapsed his skull and came through the other side of the head. Suddenly, we realised that we had covered two kilometres. I couldn’t help but think about the dreadful areas in the forest where natural light refused to enter. I wondered whether some of the majestic trees were struggling to break free from the sturdy roots that held them close to the earth. I could now hear the soothing sound of the forest lake. Some of the members of the group who reached before us were getting ready to take a dip in the cool waters of the lake while others unwrapped their lunch packets sitting on the rocks. I felt a sudden surge of energy as I washed my face and hands in the refreshing water. We ate the delicious meal that we brought with us and then continued our journey.

Part 3
The spot where we sat down to eat was called Lathi Motta, close to the second base camp. We noticed that the weather had begun to change suddenly. The wind was hot and strong which made us sweat profusely. We started walking fast as we needed to cover the meadows soon; only then could we climb the hills effortlessly. Our hearts were throbbing, thinking about the majestic mountains that we would be scaling the next day. Within hours, we reached the base camp named Karamanayar; the summit of Agasthya Mala was 14.5 kilometres away from there. The watchers slept in a tint makeshift shed made using palm fronds. Although they could be attacked by the wild animals, the watchers manage to stay safe and perform their duties honestly. The remnants of burned leaves and sticks indicated that they may have made fires at night to keep away the animals.

We reached the fourth base camp named Vazhapainthyar which is 565 metres above the sea level. The guides carried a list of the names of trekkers. Besides, they knew how many trekkers had already gone to the summit before the groups that are currently staying at the base camp. I noticed that the other guides were not like Vincent; some of them hardly spoke. They just walked in front of the groups and didn’t communicate at all. Meanwhile, some others walked so fast that the trekkers struggled to spot their guides.

Nature had begun to show us its magical frames. We soon reached a big waterfall that cascaded through the rocks. I clicked a few pictures on my camera before proceeding to the next spot. By 3 pm, we reached the fifth camp named Attayar. This shed built above the rocks had a tarpaulin roof. We walked for almost twenty minutes before we reached the anti-poaching camp. The forest officials at the camp checked our passes. This was the sturdiest building that we saw inside the forest until then. The building had a strong roof, and the pillars were covered in sharp wire mesh to prevent wild animal attacks. After spending ten minutes at this camp, we returned our backpacks to our shoulders and continued the trek. The surface looked flatter here although there were a few slopy hills. Walking on flatter surface wasn’t difficult. We sipped water and enjoyed bars of chocolates for a boost of energy. After almost an hour of walking on flatter earth, the ascent began. The next camp was the strangely named Ezhumadakkam Theri. The huge banner in front of the camp reminded us the importance of protecting the ecologically fragile forest area. Treks like these would naturally make us aware about the significance of protecting the ecology as we hardly noticed any plastic bags or other waste on the trekking path. Moreover, those who come for such arduous treks might surely be lovers of forests and nature. By 5 pm, we began climbing the rocks. Although our minds reassured that our destination is only a few kilometres away, all we could see was dense forest and greenery around us.

Our legs slowed down as the sunlight began to disappear. We felt cool breeze on our faces, indicating heavy rain somewhere inside forest. We had to climb another steep slope with sharp and slippery rocks. The rocks looked loose and ready to fall at any moment while the forest appeared dark and wild. The screeching noise of the cicadas pierced our ear drums. Our minds began imagining strange sounds and sights. We looked around as we climbed the rocks. I kept staring on my watch, but the hands on it refused to move swiftly. After climbing some more, we noticed another banner indicating that we are near the base camp. We were thrilled and walked for fifteen more minutes on the flatter road. We could now spot the Athirumala base camp 7. The Agasthyakoodam summit was 6 kilometres away from here. The area near the camp has been cleared and looked spotless. A few lamps, idols, red silk and pooja materials could be seen there. This was clearly a place for worshipping and offering prayers. There was a small gate which opened to the bridge and the base camp area.

We crossed the small bridge across a moat to reach the base camp. The moat was built deep to keep away the wild animals. The mess area is what you first see inside the camp building. Meanwhile, the wireless station is where the officers keep a register to enter the details of the trekkers. The next two buildings are residential spaces where accommodation facilities have been arranged for us.

Part 4
Besides the luggage of almost fifty people, there was a mat and a 6 x 3 sized cot in the hall. The vacant beds could be used by the new residents. Every one enjoys the same facilities in the camp. There were four big halls in the camp and around two hundred people spent the night here each day. Besides, there would be forest officials, canteen workers and other employers too. The windows in the halls are never open as the cold wind blows in. The floor is built at a height, possibly to ward off wild animal attack. Meanwhile, the doors are made using iron sheets. I went to canteen to enjoy a cup of hot coffee. I noticed a few persons enjoying conversations and coffee at the canteen while others were sitting in groups in the courtyard.

Those who returned from the lake said that only a refreshing dip in the cool waters could rejuvenate the body and mind. As I walked on the small bridge, childhood memories of the countryside with lush paddy fields and makeshift bridges of tree trunks rushed to my mind. My feet felt nice as I walked on the fresh, cool grass. The summit of the mountain could be visible from there even in the fading daylight. Some people were already bathing in the lake. I took off my clothes and footwear and jumped from one rock to another. My Tamil friends invited me to join them. The water was refreshing and washed away my exhaustion of walking for hours. The cold water caressed my body as I took a dip in the lake.

I quickly finished my bath as I was worried whether the cold water could make me fall ill. The forest watchers urged us to return to the camp as it was getting darker. I wore a jacket on top of my clothes as the wind was cold. Meanwhile, the canteen workers served hot rice porridge with mung bean stir fry, pickle, papad and fried chilies. We had to take a token of Rs 125 for the food as the ingredients and the gas cylinders are carried to the camp on foot. However, we are charged an entry fee of Rs 2500 per head; besides, the fees have been going up every year. We were starving after the trek and the relaxing swim in the lake. After the dinner, I went to the front courtyard to enjoy the cool breeze. The mobile phone didn’t show any signal there.

You would get signal only near the iron pillar upon which the solar panel has been installed. However, the signal might be lost if the wind blows strong. I moved around holding up my phone to ‘catch’ some signal. I hurriedly made a call and moved aside for the next person. People started sharing their experiences to kill time and bond with each other. I keenly listened to those who had already scaled the summit.

It was time to hit the sleeping bag which I believed would help me fight the cold. We were already instructed that the electricity supplied through the generator would be cut off at 9 pm. We would receive light again only at 5 next morning. So, every one made themselves comfortable on their beds and mats without wasting time. While some were quick to fall asleep others still enjoyed conversations in the dark.

Part 5
It was past midnight when I opened my eyes. I could still hear the muffled voices of my fellow trekkers. I got up and sipped the hot water from the flask. On my way to the washroom outside, I noticed a man trying to click the pictures of the stars using a tripod. He was using a Google Pixel camera phone to capture the scintillating pictures of the clear night sky. I looked up to see the stars glistening like diamonds in the sky. The fresh air refreshed the nostrils. This was the perfect setting for star watchers and astronomers as the view of the sky was clear. I soon returned to bed and tried to catch some sleep.

Most of us ready by 5.30 am. Rows of bathrooms and toilets are arranged for the trekkers. It must be noted that there are separate bathrooms for women trekkers. One side of the hall is reserved for the women. However, there weren’t many women trekkers.

Puttu and Bengal gram were packed for us. The gates were opened by 7 am, The forest watchers would give the green flag only after ensuring that there aren’t any wild animals in the trekking path. I wore my trekking shoes and took my trekking stick. We were advised to carry only a small backpack as we have to climb steep slopes of the mountain.

The steep rocky terrain was quite challenging for the trekkers. My mind was calm as I climbed atop the rocks. The beautiful wild flowers, dense bamboo forests and the thick tropical woods surprised us with its enchanting lure. The trekkers were careful as they stepped on the slippery rocks. A few trekkers were seen struggling to climb the gigantic rock to enjoy the distant views of the forest. The cameras were busy clicking some of the most spectacular sights of nature. The forest path became narrower as we climbed, but, the mesmerizing beauty of the forest kept inspiring us.

Arrow marks were drawn in white paint on the rocks to point us to the summit. The sun got brighter and the lush greenery got drenched in a shower of golden sunrays. The panoramic views of the forest were so captivating that it reminded you of the beautiful European landscapes. One side of the trekking path is a deep gorge, but the charm of the forest fills your heart with inexplicable joy. Our bodies drew an incredible strength from the nature that motivated us to scale the mountain that was home to some of the rare species of medicinal herbs. I noticed vivid varieties of orchid flowers which painted the mountain slopes in fabulous shades of hues. The slopy terrain seemed like testing our physical fitness and endurance. We reached Pongalapara where the first-time trekkers used to offer pongala earlier.

It was only later that we came to know that the place was frequented by the bears. Hundreds of dragonflies were seen flying around the herbs and shrubs at many spots in the forest. We were accompanied by a sage whose face reflected the serene calm of an experienced trekker. Our minds gained a strength when we learned that we needed to climb three slopy mountains consecutively. We had to climb ropes to reach atop a few huge boulders. I noticed one of my Tamil friends sitting on a rock. His mind and body didn’t allow him to continue the trek. So, he decided to wait there until his friends are back. Although the next boulder wasn’t too huge, it was surely steep. A guide instructed us to climb it using the rope and to stay against the direction of the wind. I felt the wild force of the wind as I climbed the rope. The rock stood at 70 -80 degrees slope and you need to find your balance while climbing it. A small mistake or a slipped feet could land you in grave danger. The deep gorge on one side of the rock filled my mind with fear. However, there is no other way than this one to reach the summit.

A flight of stairs would further take you up followed by a steep climb. I couldn’t help but appreciate the incredible energy and strength of the old persons in our group who were so enthusiastic to enjoy the experience. I climbed the third rock too, fighting the indomitable force of the forest wind. It was 10.40 am and I touched the summit of the Agasthya Mala. I experienced a rush of mixed feelings and emotions. I was ecstatic and in awe of the supreme beauty and power of the nature. But, I was also scared and fearful of the lurking dangers of the fearsome forest.

Nature has unleashed a mesmerizing canvas of marvellous sights in front of us. We barely spoke to each other as we breathed in the fresh air and filled our minds with the enchanting sights. There were around thirty people on the summit; some of them had already began descending as they wanted to reach Bonecaud that day itself. I could spot the Peppara dam and the Pandavan rock far away. The three feet statue of sage Agasthya faces the Pandavan rock. A guide pointed to a direction and told us that it was the tiger reserve forest of Tamil Nadu. Kerala allows trekking to the summit of the Agasthya Mala but Tamil Nadu does not allow trekkers on their part of the forest. That is the reason why Tamilians come to Kerala for the trek. Everyone could offer puja at the summit until recently. However, now, only the Adivasi community who resides in the forest can perform the puja.

Some people lay down on the rocks to relax while others sang songs to celebrate their incredible feat. Meanwhile, some opened their meal packets to enjoy the food in the company of beautiful nature. I removed my shoes, put down my backpack and lied on the rock. We have been instructed to climb down by 1.30 pm. My mind was calm and flew like a dainty thistledown, exploring the forest's magic. It’s already been two hours since I reached the summit and the sun was getting brighter. The forest watchers were urging us to start our return trek. I watched the spectacular sight one last time before getting down. I was thrilled to fulfil a dream I had been cherishing for some time.

We needed to reach the Athirumala base camp before nightfall. I quickly realised that climbing down was more difficult than scaling the mountains. You need to be really careful as you climb down the steep slopes; the hiking stick comes in handy, especially during the descent. I filled the empty water bottle with fresh, cool water that flowed from the rocks; the clean water tasted sweet and extremely refreshing. I ate the food sitting on a rock and rested there awhile.

The sunrays had begun to fade when we reached the Athirumala base camp. We were startled by a few gunshots from inside the forest. But then we realised that the forest officials may have done it to scare away bears or wild tuskers. I enjoyed a hot coffee at the camp canteen before going to the river for a bath. I met the new group of trekkers who were there to climb the mountain the next day. I spend some time at the lake, enjoying the cool water. The forest officials, carrying guns, urged us to return to the camp as bears and wild tuskers were still roaming close.

We sat on the bench outside the camp to share our travelling experiences. The descriptions were so vivid that I let my mind wander from the warm beaches of Kanyakumari to the snowy landscapes of Ladakh. I nourished my body with hot rice porridge and mung beans stir fry served at the camp canteen. As I crawled into my sleeping bag, I longed to dream about the mighty mountains and the alluring forests of Agasthya Mala.

The return
I opened my eyes to the majestic Agasthyakoodam mountains covered in mist. After breakfast, we collected our passes from the officers. I bid farewell to everyone who had become part of this fabulous experience. The mind-blowing sights of the deep forest and the meadows could be enjoyed better during the trek back. We met the new batch of trekkers on their way to the base camp. We enjoyed the packed meal, drank cool water from the forest lake, rested on the rocks and walked past the Attayar, Vazhapainthiyar and Karamanayar camps before reaching the Bonecaud picket station by evening. The passes were shown again at the counter, and I got the deposit amount back. As I turned back to grab a final look at the enchanting forest, my mind echoed the words “Take only memories and leave only footprints” by Chief Seattle.