Nazrani culture in full display at 260-year-old Christian ‘tharavadu’ homestay in Pala

The palatial Kottukapally ‘tharavadu’ (ancestral home) in Kottayam district’s Pala reflects the Nazrani (Syrian Christian) culture. The 260-year-old mansion is now a homestay, rolling out a red carpet to welcome guests. The imposing structure oozing with traditional architecture also has an onsite museum that would take the guests to the corridors of a bygone era. The visitors are also treated to scrumptious Christian cuisine from the Nazrani kitchen.

The origins of the Kottukapally family date back to AD 52, and its members came to Pala at the invitation of the local administrators to indulge in pepper trade. Later, the family thrived and made a name for itself in Pala. The heritage homestay in the name of ‘Nazrani Tharavadu’ opened its doors to guests in December 2023. It is indeed a cakewalk to find ‘Nazrani Tharavadu’ as anyone in Pala will direct you to the age-old building without fail. As you step into the gateless compound spread across two acres, the towering palm trees will warmly welcome you. You can slowly walk towards the structures that portray the architectural excellence of the Nazrani community.

A 'Spanish Mansion'
First, you can see a 60-year-old bungalow with exquisite arches and curved windows. This six-room ‘Spanish Mansion’ is the residence of John Thomas Kottukapally and Thressi John Kottukapally. The bungalow was built by parliamentarian George Thomas, John's father. It is noteworthy that George Thomas represented Muvattupuzha in Parliament.

The family’s ancestral home stands across the ‘Spanish Mansion’. The ancestral home was built in the heart of the Pala town in 1736 and was relocated to the current spot in 2011. The house underwent many changes as the family grew in time. The building is a perfect amalgam of traditional Kerala architecture and colonial influences. The L-shaped structure with three bedrooms now functions as a homestay that accommodates eight guests. Besides antique furniture and brass vessels, you can find literary works from the 1800s, encyclopedia editions from the 1930s, and other invaluable old books. The elegant rooms come with modern facilities such as ACs, study tables, wardrobes and bedside tables.

Kottayam-style delicacies
The dining area, where breakfast is served, has a TV and kitchen. Apart from fresh fruit juice, butter and bread, the guests can feast on Kottayam-style ‘appam’, ‘idiyappam’, green gram curry and egg roast. If they are willing, the visitors can also learn to cook ‘Nazrani’ dishes such as duck roast and fish cooked in fresh banana leaves. It may be noted that lunch and dinner are not served at the facility.

The granary, which is at the far end of the structure, is the oldest portion of the ancestral home, as it was built in the early part of the 1800s. In the olden days, it was normal to have granaries in houses to stock pepper and grains. ‘Thekkini’, the southern side of the house, is near the ‘Spanish Mansion’, and it’s believed that the family’s ancestors built it when they came to Pala for pepper trading in the 1730s. The ancestral home reflects the family’s legacy as traders in pepper. When the house was relocated to the current spot, the family could preserve ‘thekkini’ in its original form without any damage.

Trading room and museum
Besides two rooms and a kitchen, the southern part has a ‘trading room’ with sliding doors. Now, ‘thekkini’ houses the onsite museum. The money counting board, weighing scales and vintage kitchen utensils, among others, in the ‘trading room’ have a story or two to tell. You can also interact with the region's handloom weavers. The guests can visit the Kottukapally rubber estate, which is 20km from the ancestral home, the four temples dedicated to Lord Ram and his brothers, and the St. Alphonsa pilgrim centre at Bharananganam.