Kappa, fish curry, and other toddy shop favourites: Welcome to Vendakkala

If you are a frequent train commuter between Kottayam and Tiruvalla, chances are great that you have spotted a charming old tiled house near Changanasseri. We decided to check out the intriguing toddy shop decked out with jasmine flowers.

“Welcome to Vendakkala,” Anirudhan greeted us with a familiar smile as soon as we entered the shap (local rendition of the word 'shop'). “I want people to feel nurtured, not merely fed,” he said while explaining the homelike design of his establishment.

He is joined by Abdul Wahid in the kitchen. Many people have tried, and failed, to recreate the magic of Wahid’s recipes. Even chilli-scared foreigners have relished the spicy karimeen curry and crispy appams created in the Vendakkala shap.

The kitchen was ready as usual. It was an exhaustive menu- Karimeen pollichathu, kanava varuthathu, kari porichathu, duck mappas, pork fry, beef fry, small fry, crab curry. Appam, kappa, puttu and porotta were also available'
Patrons had already arrived. They sit in groups to sip at their earthen jars filled with toddy. They were all praise for the establishment. “We are lucky to have the Vendakkala shap here,” said Rajappan, who had hopped on a boat from Payippad to reach Changanasseri and hired an auto rickshaw from the town to reach the watering hole. He said that he repeated the pilgrimage once in a week at least.

Online followers

The Vendakkala shaapp is a hit with the new generation as well. The enchanting dishes have found their way to WhatsApp, Facebook and YouTube. Patrons visit from distant places to check out the treat. The wood-panelled rooms add to the charm. The shap offers special rooms for visiting families. The regular patrons, however, belong to the surrounding areas. They know each other well. They have been debating current affairs over a glass of toddy for years.

The Vendakkala shap stands out among toddy shops. It serves even puttu and kadala, something that belongs to family breakfast tables. The shap is a breakfast destination for regular customers. The place opens at 9 am.

The Vendakkala take

The famed duck roast of the Kuttanad region is served with a twist at Vendakkala. The chunks in a thick gravy is more of a mappas. The squid fry is a close second on the menu. It goes well with the stringed idiyappam.

The star attraction, like any other shap worth its name, is the tested combination of kappa and fish curry. “Sometimes I feel jealous when I see the love-affair of kappa and meen,” said a lovelorn patron as he stuffed himself.

The shaap by the railway track has been a part of the landscape for 14 years.