There’s something universally comforting about the humble egg. Whether boiled, scrambled or whisked into a soufflé, eggs symbolise nourishment and culinary possibilities. In the Malabar region of Kerala, eggs transcend their everyday nature to become the heart of unique and treasured dishes. On World Eggs Day (which falls on October 11), it’s only fitting that we honour three iconic egg-based Malabar dishes: Muttamala with Pinjanathappam, Kaypola and Kilikoodu. These dishes aren’t just food but cultural treasures infused with history, warmth, and the art of turning humble ingredients into soul-stirring creations.
Muttamala and Pinjanathappam: Threads of history, strands of tradition
In the 14th and 15th centuries, deep inside the convents of Portugal, nuns discovered an unexpected use for egg whites – they stiffened their vestments with them. But it was the leftover yolks that sparked culinary magic. The nuns began creating fios de ovos – delicate, golden threads of egg yolk cooked in sugar syrup, a dessert that would eventually travel across the oceans with Portuguese explorers and evolve into the Malabar classic known as Muttamala.
It’s no surprise that Muttamala became a beloved dish in the coastal regions of North Malabar, especially in places like Koyilandi where Vasco da Gama first set foot on Indian soil, and Pantalayani Kollam in Kozhikode, where the Portuguese lived in large numbers. The historical connection between Malabar and Portugal can be tasted in every silky strand of Muttamala, a dessert that beautifully weaves together culture, history, and the love for culinary artistry.
But what makes Muttamala truly fascinating is its global journey. While it flourished in Malabar, it also made its mark in other parts of the world. In Spain, it’s called huevo hilado (spun egg), in Japan it’s known as keiran soman (hen’s egg noodle) and in Cambodia, it becomes vawee. They call it jala mas (golden net) in Malaysia, and in Indonesia, it’s celebrated as foi thong (golden strands). These global variations highlight the universal appeal of this golden, delicate dish.
Paired with Pinjanathappam, a silky pudding made from egg whites, the combination offers a sensory experience like no other. Muttamala’s rich sweetness is perfectly balanced by the light, custardy texture of Ppinjanathappam, creating a harmony of flavours that feels both luxurious and comforting. Together, they form a dessert that transcends borders and brings together cultures through the simplest of ingredients – eggs and sugar.
Kaypola: A comforting slice of Malabar’s soul
If there’s a dish that embodies the heart-warming essence of Malabar’s home-cooked meals, it’s Kaypola – a sweet banana-egg cake that feels like a warm hug in every bite. Made with ripe plantains (Nenthrakkaya) and eggs, Kaypola is a beloved snack, often enjoyed during teatime or festive gatherings. Its golden, caramelised exterior and soft, spongy interior offer a delightful contrast, blending the natural sweetness of bananas with the richness of eggs.
The beauty of Kaypola lies in its simplicity. You don’t need elaborate ingredients — just bananas, eggs, ghee, sugar and a pinch of cardamom to infuse a touch of warmth. Yet, the result is nothing short of magical. The ripe bananas lend a sweetness that melts into the eggs, creating a pillowy, comforting, and indulgent texture. Kaypola’s roots in Malabar’s food culture make it a favourite during Ramadan and special family occasions. It’s the kind of dish that brings people together – familiar and filled with love.
Kaypola celebrates Malabar’s ability to transform simple, everyday ingredients into something extraordinary. With each bite, you are reminded of home, shared moments, and the soothing power of food.
Kilikoodu: A nest of crispiness and comfort
In Malabar, even a snack is elevated to an art form, and Kilikoodu (bird’s nest in Malayalam) is no exception. With its crunchy exterior and savoury filling, it delights both the eyes and the palate. The outer layer, made from crispy vermicelli or breadcrumbs, encloses a soft filling of mashed potatoes, vegetables, and spiced eggs, creating a beautiful balance of textures and flavours.
The egg plays a central role in Kilikoodu, binding the filling and adding richness to the dish. Shaped like a bird’s nest, the snack is as visually appealing as it is delicious, embodying the creativity and care that Malabar’s home cooks bring to their cuisine. The final touch is given when the nests are served with boiled eggs placed artfully in the middle of each piece.
On World Eggs Day, as we celebrate the egg in all its forms, Malabar’s egg-based dishes remind us that food is much more than just sustenance – it is a story, a connection to our past, and a celebration of cultural identity. Muttamala, Kaypola and Kilikoodu are not just recipes – they are threads that weave together history, culture, and emotion. Each dish tells a tale of exploration, adaptation, and love. After all, food is more than flavour – it’s a feeling.