Memphis: Where American songs move to an African rhythm
April 4, 1968: Dr Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated while leading a human rights campaign in Memphis, USA. A visit to the site where he was tragically killed.
April 4, 1968: Dr Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated while leading a human rights campaign in Memphis, USA. A visit to the site where he was tragically killed.
April 4, 1968: Dr Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated while leading a human rights campaign in Memphis, USA. A visit to the site where he was tragically killed.
Memphis — The rhythm of this city is unmistakable, a soulful pulse shaped by its deep African-American roots. Here, country, soul, and rock and roll intertwine, creating a musical landscape as rich as its history. At dawn, the first blues notes rise from Beale Street, drifting through the morning air like a distant echo of the past. Memphis has long been a cradle of musical talent, home to legends like Elvis Presley and countless other artists who found their voice within its borders.
The city's historical recording studios, like Sun, Stax, and the Pyramid, stand as monuments to a legacy that reshaped African American music. Within their red brick walls, the melodies of generations past stay, carrying forward the spirit of a city where every note tells a story.
A history stained in struggle
As Memphis is a city I have always dreamed of visiting, for two days, I wanted to explore its iconic music studios and the homes of legendary artists. But first, I’m headed somewhere different. A place that showcases the talents of Black people in music, but also a reminder of a time when they were marginalized and oppressed. I need to see the wounds inflicted by that era. That journey begins at the Lorraine Motel.
Memphis: The ultimate pork paradise
Memphis is famous not only for its music but also for its pork. The world-famous Memphis-style pork barbecue is a prime example. There are four main barbecue styles in America: Carolina, Kansas City, Texas, and Memphis. Of these, the Memphis style, which requires extensive cooking time, is considered the king of flavor. Traditional Memphis barbecue uses only pork in dry and wet styles. Having come this far, shouldn't I try it? I found a good place for barbecue.
Central BBQ
'Smoke is Our Sauce' is the motto of the Central BBQ chain. The pork is slow-cooked in a pit fueled by locally sourced wood, infusing the meat with a distinctive smoky flavor. I finished lunch with one of their sandwiches in a container with a piglet's picture on it. As usual, I couldn't finish it all, and as I looked at the remaining food on my plate, I saw the elderly women at the next table ordering a second and third plate. While I didn't find it exceptionally delicious, the taste was unique. Now, let's turn our attention to a solemn piece of history.
Lorraine Motel
The Lorraine Motel is on a quiet side street. The neon signboard, usually shining brightly at night, isn't lit in the midday sun, but it still retains its old glory. The motel's architecture is typical of traditional American motels. A two-story building with a veranda. This is where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated. As a result, the National Museum of Civil Rights is situated here. The motel started as the Windsor Hotel in 1924. In 1945, black businessman Walter Bailey acquired the hotel and renamed it the Lorraine, honoring both his wife, Loree, and the popular jazz standard 'Sweet Lorraine.'
The motel quickly became a haven for Black travelers. It was featured in the Negro Motorist Green Book, or 'Green Guide,' a vital resource that listed businesses and accommodations that welcomed Black patrons during the era of Jim Crow, when options were severely restricted. Famous singers of that time who came to record at the nearby Stax Recording Studio stayed here and released super-hit records.
The sanitation workers' strike
The Memphis sanitation strike was one of the most significant movements that shook America in the late 1960s. The government used all its might to suppress the strike of Black sanitation workers in Memphis. In those days, Black people were considered second-class citizens, and they suffered severe oppression. In April 1968, during the height of the strike, human rights activist Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. arrived to help coordinate the movement.
Room 306: Echoes of history
Dr. King stayed in room 306 of the Lorraine Motel and led the strike. On the evening of April 4th, he was shot while standing on the balcony. He was rushed to the hospital but couldn't be saved. James Earl Ray, a man from a building opposite the motel, was arrested by the police. Although he was convicted, doubts about the real killer persisted until the 1990s. King's family accuses Lloyd Jowers, who ran a restaurant near the motel, of being the actual culprit. Although there was a retrial in 1999, nothing significant was proven. The trial judge and jury only confirmed their suspicion of a conspiracy, but the details of that conspiracy remained unclear. It's alleged that government agencies were involved in the conspiracy.
The National Civil Rights Museum
The Lorraine Motel is now a museum, telling the story of enslaved Black people in America. It displays exhibits covering everything from the arduous journey of enslaved Africans being taken from Africa and packed onto ships to their eventual emancipation. A new building, designed to preserve the historical integrity of the old motel, has been added. This is the entrance to the museum. There isn’t a large crowd. I got my pass at the counter and went inside.
An apology to Gandhiji
The first sight in the museum is sure to bring tears to the eyes of Indians: a statue of Mahatma Gandhi. Below the statue is his quote: "An eye for an eye will make the whole world blind." Next to it is a note that says, in essence, that if the world had been non-violent, Martin Luther King would not have been killed; an apology from Mahatma Gandhi for the failure to implement his ideals. I had to take a selfie before the statue, and then went into the museum.
Unimaginable cruelty
To grasp the boundless cruelty of humanity towards one another, one needs only observe the writings, images, and artifacts displayed in this museum. Here are some scenes that struck me deeply. I knew the lives of enslaved people were miserable, but I didn’t realize it was this harsh. People from Africa were seen not as humans but as animals. One of the first images is of life on the slave ships. People were chained together in rows, forced into a cramped position. They wore only a small cloth around their waist. Food and water were minimal. They relieved themselves where they were. They were subjected to brutal beatings at any moment; this ‘random’ beating was to instil fear and prevent rebellion. By the time they reached the shore after months of suffering, their numbers would have decreased. Those who died during the voyage were considered physically weak. The recreated video footage of the slave ship shattered me.
Endless beatings
Every display in the museum is heartbreaking. Some visitors wept. The endurance of their ancestors humbles them. I saw an old man standing for a long time in front of a picture. He gently touched the picture several times. Perhaps his ancestors were depicted in that painting. The subsequent pictures show the stories of beatings and violence, leading up to the end of slavery through the efforts of Abraham Lincoln and others. Yet, the exhibits end in a period where inequality persisted. After seeing everything, I wondered, do Black people have complete freedom here today? On the surface, perhaps, but the remnants of ownership and slavery still echo in the minds of many.
Room number 306
At the end of the museum is room 306. The room is preserved exactly as it was on April 4, 1968, when Martin Luther King was shot. There’s no entry inside, but a glass partition allows viewing. It’s a simple, beautiful room. Had he lived a little longer, he would have fought harder for the Black community. That's probably why his life was cut short so abruptly. As you leave the museum, you will see a full-sized statue of Abraham Lincoln. The sculpture depicts him as if he were arguing for a vulnerable Black lady. No history of slavery in America is complete without acknowledging the historic role of Abraham Lincoln. I made my way slowly toward the main entrance. Outside the museum, to the left, on the first floor of the motel, a wreath is permanently placed on the balcony of room 306. Below, two classic cars are parked. Perhaps they were vehicles used by Dr. King, but it isn't mentioned anywhere.
Was that neon signboard on back then too?
It was around 3 o'clock. I reached the Lorraine Motel's famous signboard and snapped a selfie. Did the neon light from that sign shine on Dr. King’s balcony on April 4, 1968? Was that very light that helped the still unknown killer find his target? Who can say?
The heartbreaking images within the museum, along with the protests where signs read 'I AM A MAN' are forever etched in my mind. The haunting sounds of whips and wails from the slave ships still in my ears. "Sir, shall we go?" called Peter, the driver of the Sprinter van. Was his invitation, too, a subtle reminder that Black people continue to be bound to menial roles?