Kaftan meets Kasavu: Guruvayoor Ambalanadayil costume designer Aswathy's cross-cultural spin to Onam fashion

Breaking away from the traditional golden kasavu-bordered saris and temple set-sari ensembles, this Onam season saw a fresh wave of cross-cultural styles in women's fashion, all the while preserving the essence of Kerala’s most cherished festival. Costume designer and entrepreneur Aswathy Jayakumar, in an interview with Onmanorama, shared how she contributed to this trend by crafting a stunning Turkish-inspired Kaftan for actor-director Basil Joseph’s wife, Elizabeth Samuel, and their daughter, Hope. Aswathy, a former tech professional, is the wife of renowned Malayalam filmmaker Vipin Das. She has designed costumes for several films, including the recent Prithviraj starrer Guruvayoor Ambalanadayil.

"Today, people prioritise comfort over everything, especially when choosing their outfits for festive occasions. That’s what inspired me to create a Kaftan for Elizabeth this Onam," said Aswathy, who runs AJ's Attires in Thiruvananthapuram. "Elizabeth loved the dress for its ease and the freedom of movement," she added.

The Kaftan, a traditional robe, has been worn across various cultures for centuries. Though often associated with Turkish or Persian heritage and commonly considered a Muslim outfit, its versatility and elegance have made it a popular choice globally. In warm climates, the lightweight garment is ideal for staying cool, while in some other traditions, it is even seen as a symbol of royalty.

"Kaftans have been trending in Kerala for the last two or three years, and I thought, why not make it an Onam outfit too? That’s where the idea came from," Aswathy explained, noting that she specialises in custom designs to meet specific client needs, which she finds both rewarding and manageable.

In a recent Instagram post, Elizabeth and Hope dazzled in Aswathy's matching Kaftans that exuded simplicity and sophistication. The beige fabric, laced with delicate floral patterns, was accented by a striking light golden and deep blue border. The unique double-cut neckline—featuring a V-shape with blue and gold embellishments and, ultimately, a boat neck—added a modern twist to the traditional look. The three-quarter sleeves, enhanced with dainty strings, completed the outfit with a touch of understated charm.

Basil Joseph, meanwhile, complemented his wife and daughter’s attire with a blue kurta featuring intricate quadrangle prints, and he paired it with a classic dhoti. The couple embraced a minimalist aesthetic charm for their accessories, with both sporting simple wristwatches and foregoing elaborate jewellery. Elizabeth, however, did add a touch of glamour with a pair of large half-moon earrings, a delicate star-shaped nose pin, and jasmine flowers adorning her gracefully styled hairdo. She completed the look with her signature black-framed glasses.

Looking forward, Aswathy anticipates more cross-cultural designs making their way into Kerala's traditional festivals. "This Onam saw a beautiful fusion of designs and patterns, with colour-dyed pieces gaining popularity," she said.

Aswathy’s journey into the fashion world began eight years ago, working alongside her tech career before transitioning fully into design five years ago. She has since made her mark in the Malayalam film industry, designing costumes for hit films like Antakshari, Jaya Jaya Jaya Jaya Hey, Guruvayoor Ambalanadayil, and Vazha. "Each film required completely different wardrobes, which kept things exciting," she explained.

Among her standout projects, Aswathy’s shirt designs for Prithviraj in Guruvayoor Ambalanadayil became a major trend this Onam season. "Designing for that film was a challenge, yet exhilarating, especially with such a large ensemble cast. It felt like preparing for a wedding!" she shared, adding that the kurta worn by Prithviraj in the climax scene was her most requested design. "I received countless orders for that kurta after the movie’s release, and the positive feedback was truly heartwarming."

Aswathy and her husband, Vipin, have an eight-year-old daughter who, along with Vipin, serves as her muse. "I often experiment with my designs on my husband and daughter," she said with a smile. In addition to movies, Aswathy has also lent her talent to costume design for various ad films.