Faith, flavour, and fusion: Rediscovering Nasrani cuisine at Pala's historic Christian tharavadu

Nasrani cuisine, the traditional fare of Kerala's Syrian Christian community, is a unique blend of indigenous flavours and influences from Jewish, Portuguese, and English culinary traditions. Over centuries, this cuisine evolved into its present form, deeply shaped by colonial history and cultural exchanges. Its distinctive flavours and preparation methods make it a treasured part of Kerala's rich gastronomic landscape.

Our quest for the perfect Nasrani meal led us to a remarkable two-century-old Christian mansion at Pala in Kottayam, Kerala. Here, at 'Nazarani Tharavadu', Thressi John Kottukappally warmly welcomed us into her ancestral home—a 260-year-old heritage villa steeped in history.

Thressi guided us through the preparation of kallappam and mutton mappas, dishes that epitomise the depth and diversity of Nasrani cuisine. Beyond showcasing the preparation of these dishes, Thressi unravelled the stories behind these recipes, tracing their roots through centuries of tradition. With each dish, she painted a vivid picture of how Nasrani cuisine has evolved, preserving the essence of Kerala's Syrian Christian heritage while celebrating the cultural exchanges that have shaped it into what it is today.

Kallappam and mutton mappas: The heart of Nasrani cuisine
A hallmark of Nasrani cooking, the kallappam and mutton mappas combination represents tradition and innovation.

Kallappam, or fermented rice pancakes, are soft, spongy delights traditionally leavened with toddy (kallu). Modern adaptations often use yeast for convenience, but the essence remains. The batter, made with white rice, grated coconut, cooked rice, and a touch of cumin, is fermented to achieve its tangy flavour and airy texture.

Paired with Kallappam is Mutton Mappas, a creamy coconut milk curry brimming with spices like coriander, cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom. The mutton, marinated in salt, pepper, and turmeric, is cooked to tender perfection before being simmered in a fragrant sauce. This dish beautifully showcases the tropical adaptation of European stews, using coconut milk instead of cream to create a velvety texture.

Tastes from around the around
Nasrani cuisine reflects centuries of cultural fusion, much like Goan cuisine, especially in its use of slow-cooked, coconut-based curries. Its adaptation of stews, once reliant on dairy cream, to the abundant coconut milk of Kerala is a testament to the resourcefulness of this culinary tradition. Mappas, with its blend of tropical flavours and foreign influences, exemplifies this evolution, offering a local twist to a classic stew.

A feast rooted in faith and culture
Thressi highlights how Nasrani food traditions are deeply interwoven with faith and culture. From the concept of a non-vegetarian sadya—a feast influenced by plantation culture in Kerala's high ranges—to dishes offered in churches, these practices echo Hindu temple customs, symbolising the region's cultural confluence.

At 'Nazarani Tharavadu', Thressi preserves the culinary heritage of Kerala's Christian families and elevates it to a fine dining experience. Guests are treated to exquisitely presented traditional dishes reimagined with a contemporary touch while staying true to their authentic roots. This immersive exploration of Kerala's culinary legacy is as much about savouring flavours as it is about connecting with the stories and traditions behind them.